Cats are interesting creatures, with many traits and behaviors that are easily recognized as being uniquely feline-the way they curl up tightly to take a nap, for example, or their characteristic grooming rituals after enjoying a meal.Another common feline behavior is kneading, a motion cats make by pushing in and out with their paws, alternating between right and left. Some cats knead with claws completely retracted, while others will extend their claws as they push in and retract as they pull back.Kneading is sometimes colloquially referred to as "making biscuits," because the motion resembles a baker kneading dough. It is almost always done on a soft, pliable surface like a pillow, a comforter, another cat or kitten, or even your lap. Often it's accompanied by contented purring, and sometimes even by drooling as the cat relaxes its jaw. It's not uncommon for a cat to be in an almost trance-like state as it kneads with a steady, rhythmic motion.Explanations for the kneading behavior vary, but it is without doubt an instinctive trait. Newborn kittens knead their mother's belly as they snuggle close to nurse, and the motion is thought to stimulate the flow of milk through her nipples. One rather outdated theory proclaims that cats that knead were separated from or weaned from their mother too early, and therefore continue the kittenish behavior into adulthood, yet nearly all adult cats knead, regardless of how or when they weaned. It's more likely that the instinctive behavior is simply comforting to cats. (Although some cats do "suckle" the corner of a pillow or blanket while they are kneading.)Kneading may also go back to the days when wild cats patted down tall grass or shredded leaves to make a soft, fluffy bed for sleeping or giving birth. Through the ages, the behavior continues to a natural part of cat instinct before settling down for a comfortable catnap.There's also a more practical aspect to kneading. Cats have scent glands in the soft pads on the bottoms of their paws. When they knead, some of their unique scent is released onto the surface being kneaded, and that scent serves as a kind of territorial marker for any unfamiliar cats that might come along and try to stake a claim. So when your cat is kneading your lap, he's not only telling you he feels comfortable and secure, but he's claiming you as his own. (Scratching is also a natural part of cat instinct that results in the cat leaving his own residual scent behind, as well as a visual marker-claw marks-that other cats can recognize.)If your cat kneads you frequently, it's a good incentive to keep his claws trimmed, in order to avoid being scratched or having your clothing snagged. (Just use a regular toenail clipper to nip off the sharp, curved tip of each claw, being careful not to cut down into the quick, where tiny blood vessels and nerves are located.) You could also keep a folded towel next to your favorite chair, and use it to protect your lap as your cat kneads you with his paws.If the kneading motion is uncomfortable enough to really bother you, you can try gently pulling your cat down into a lying position so he settles down and goes to sleep. Other tricks involve gently holding his front paws together, petting him, or distracting your pet with a toy or a treat. Pet behavior experts agree that it's not appropriate to punish a cat for natural and instinctive behaviors like kneading.Some female cats will knead frequently just before going into heat, as a signal to males of her willingness and ability to mate. As the estrus cycle continues, the cat will make plaintive meows that quickly escalate into loud, persistent yowls that are an effort to get the attention of a male. She may also pace restlessly, mark areas of your house with urine, become extremely affectionate, and assume the mating position (head low, with raised hindquarters) when you pet her. It's impossible to discourage these natural behaviors, and the best way to eliminate the symptoms associated with the female estrus cycle is to have your cat spayed. Article courtesy of Catster.com
Dealing with Abused or Neglected Cats
JUST AS YOU WOULD FEED A STARVING ANIMAL frequent small meals but never a large meal, give the emotionally deprived cat frequent light contact for very short periods.In some cases it may be necessary to pull yourself back all the way to just eye and voice contact.When you add petting, move slowly, use the light touch, and keep it short.Always stop soon enough to leave him wanting more.The object is to repeat the desirable pattern:love and petting make love and purring, over and over again.Never ever allow your actions to go on so long that you trigger the undesirable response of biting, scratching, or hiding in fear. PATIENCE IS ALL IMPORTANT; it’s better to go too slow than too fast. When I start repatterning a cat who has been abused or locked in a cage for a long time, I know before I start that I can expect to work with the patient for several weeks before he begins to relax and enjoy a normal relationship. FROM TIME TO TIME I COME UPON AN OWNER WHO is unwittingly initiating the scratch and bite response by over stimulating a hypersensitive cat.When some cats are petted they will first react with a typical purring, stretching, and kneading response.However, if the petting becomes too vigorous or is simply carried on too long, the cat’s emotions are stimulated beyond the point where the cat can either understand or control himself.The emotions engulf the cat, his own emotions frightening him, and he lashes out at the cause of this emotional tidal wave:you.I see this reaction most often in cats who have come out of a situation where there was very little demonstration of love.They are taken into a new home starving for affection and physical closeness, and when they get it they experience a kind of emotional indigestion. WHEN THIS HAPPENS, KEEP CALM.The cat will be as frightened of his sudden and unexpected reaction as you are.Gently withdraw and try to remember how long you were petting your friend before this reaction occurred.Next time, you must stop earlier.Remember, until he settles down, always leave him wanting more.
From The New Natural Cat A Complete Guide For Finicky Owners by Anitra Frazier.
Cat Aggression
Aggression is very common in cats - they can become aggressive when they have had enough petting, when they are picked up, when they are frightened, and even when they are playing. This is a natural response and one that may be hard to change. It is important that you learn how to read your cat's moods and body language and know what things cause her to become aggressive so that you can avoid an aggressive attack. In some cases you may be able to use behavior modification to change your cats behavior. Listed below are several types of cat aggression and the recommended treatment.
Never physically punish a cat for showing aggression. This will only make the situation worse. Cats that are physically punished will only become more aggressive.
Fearful or Defensive Aggression - The best way to deal with defensive aggression is to remove the fearful stimuli. If the fearful stimuli cannot be removed, you can work to slowly change your cat's feelings about it using counter conditioning. To do this, pair an extra special treat (tuna, chicken, etc.) or a fun play session with the presence of the scary thing. Do this over and over until a new association is formed. If it is a dog your cat is afraid of, make sure your dog is never allowed to chase the cat.
Play Aggression - Cats are naturally aggressive in play because their play mimics aspects of the hunt - stalk, chase, attack. Learn to anticipate when your cat becomes playfully aggressive (whenever you walk by the dresser, when you dangle your hand over the side of the chair, or when you move your feet under the covers) so that you can redirect the attack onto a toy. Have a small toy ready and the second before your cat attacks you - toss the toy away from her. Cats have motion sensitive vision - if they see something move fast across their line of vision, they will chase it.
You can also interrupt a playful attack with a loud noise or water gun but be careful because this method may cause your cat to become afraid of you. If it happens that you were unable to interrupt and prevent an attack - scream "OUCH" as loud as you can and remove yourself from the room.
Play Therapy - It is important to play with your cat on a regular basis in order to provide her with an outlet for her playful energy. Toss a ball or wadded up piece of paper for her to chase, use a fishing pole type toy like a feather dancer to stimulate her to chase and pounce, or provide interactive toys like round-a-bouts or treat dispensers. If your play session occurs at about the same time every day (cats love routine) your cat will start to anticipate the fun and reserve play for this time.
Redirected Aggression - Cats often redirect their aggressive feelings about one thing (a cat outside the window) onto someone else (you or another pet). A cat can stay agitated for a long time, sometimes up to 24 hours, and in this state they often attack the first thing that comes their way. It is important that you do not interact with your cat when she looks agitated. Just leave her alone until she has calmed down. If your cat becomes agitated by cats outside the window try preventing visual access using blinds or shades.
Petting-Induced Aggression - Some cats have a very low threshold for tolerating petting. Your cat may be fine for five pats but on the sixth one she attacks. We don't really know what causes this reaction but it most likely has to do with the sensitivity of their skin. The important thing to do to prevent such an attack is to learn your cats threshold level and don't exceed it. The body signals that tell you that your cat is becoming agitated with petting include: ears back, tail twitching, or skin on the back twitching. When you see these signs - stop petting. You can work to increase your cats petting tolerance by pairing pats with food treats. Pat five times - give a treat - then pat one more time. Do this until you have slowly increased the number of pats she will tolerate. Inter-cat Aggression - This is a common form of aggression because cats are very territorial animals who usually prefer to live alone due to their solitary nature. Adults are less likely to accept new cats into the household and will usually show aggression to the new comer. Aggression between cats can also be status or rank related. They may simply be trying to work out who is the boss. Sometimes resident cats, who usually live peacefully together, will start to attack each other. This breakdown of peaceful coexistence could have been triggered by just about anything. Examples of things that could have occurred are: one cat just came back from the vets office and smells funny; one cat redirected aggression onto the other after seeing a strange cat outside and they continue to fight; one cat is sick and easily agitated. You may be able to help get the cats back to a peaceful coexistence by providing food treats, play sessions, and cuddle times only when the cats are in each other's presence. Sometimes aggression is a sign of illness or pain. If your normally loving cat suddenly starts showing aggressive behavior you may want to consult with your veterinarian.
Correcting Unwanted Behavior in Your Cat
Sometimes cats do things we don't like such as jumping up on the table or counters, scratching on the furniture, or attacking our feet when we walk by. The first thing we need to learn before we try to "correct" these annoying behaviors is that they are all motivated by natural feline instincts. Cats naturally seek out high places to rest and survey their environment, so you should provide them with several high perches around the house. Cats also naturally scratch on vertical surfaces to mark their territory, so you should provide a proper scratching post and encourage them to use it. And cats love to play, and their play behavior often involves aspects of the hunt - and sometimes the only available prey is a pair of moving feet. Provide your cat with plenty of toys and spend some time everyday throwing a ball or crumpled up piece of paper for your cat to chase.
Redirecting your cat to perform these natural behaviors where and when you feel is appropriate is the best way to deal with these problems. However, sometimes you may also need to let your cat know that the old place or action is not acceptable. The worst way to try to correct unwanted behavior is to physically or verbally punish your cat. All this does is make your cat afraid of you and teach her that it's only safe to do these things when you aren't around. A better way to correct a cat is to have the environment do the punishing. We call this remote correction and it is very effective because an animal's behavior is dictated by the consequences that follow. If doing a certain thing leads to an unpleasant experience then your cat will be less likely to do it again. Using remote correction has the added benefit of removing you as the bad guy. The idea is to connect something unpleasant with the behavior you are trying to get rid of. Aversive textures, smells, tastes, or sounds can be used to "booby trap" off-limit areas or interrupt unwanted behaviors. The following are some examples of each: Textures: sticky paper, aluminum foil, heavy plastic, or a plastic carpet runner (knubby side up) can be placed in areas you want to be off limits. Cats hate walking on these surfaces. Smells: citronella, perfumes, solid air fresheners, citrus, aloe, eucalyptus oil, and oil of wintergreen are all aversive smells to cats. Soak pieces of cloth or cotton balls in these smelly substances and place them where you don't want your cat to go. Tastes: bitter apple, citrus products, hot sauces, cayenne pepper or aloe gel can all be rubbed on the surface your cat is chewing on. They will associate the bad taste with the item. Sound: blow a whistle, ring a bell, or shake a penny can (empty soda can with 5-6 pennies inside) to startle her just as she is about to engage in the unwanted behavior. Remember, you should not say a word - the startling noise should come out of nowhere. A strategically placed motion detector, a pyramid of empty soda cans that fall when disturbed. These events are designed to simply startle your cat, not terrify her, but this may not be the best method if you have a particularly sensitive cat. The key to owning a wonderful pet is to reinforce behaviors you like. Don't forget to tell kitty how good she is when she is sleeping in an acceptable place, scratching on the scratching post, or playing with the appropriate toy.
Cats And Their Litter Boxes
The best thing about cats is that they don't need to be potty-trained. Relieving themselves in soft, loose material and burying their waste is an innate behavior, so even young kittens know what to do without being shown. All you have to do is provide an acceptable place for the cat to do her business. To start out on the right foot with your new cat or kitten we have a few suggestions:
Where should you put the litter box? The litter box should be located in a place that provides the cat with some amount of privacy but that is convenient for her to get to. It may be desirable to you to put the litter box in the basement but your cat may find the basement unacceptable. A small kitten may not be able to climb down the stairs, or the floor may be too cold to walk on. Additionally, basements house a variety of giant noise-making monsters like the furnace, washer, and dryer. If a cat is frightened by the noise of one of these appliances while she is using her litter box, she may not want to return to that location to eliminate.
What kind of litter box should you use?
A standard plastic litter box is preferred by most cats. If you have a kitten, make sure the sides are not too high for her to get into the box. Be careful of using covered litter boxes. While some cats prefer the privacy, they must be cleaned more frequently because the odors get trapped inside. A covered box that is not cleaned often quickly becomes unacceptable to most cats. Some cats don't mind a liner in the box, but others do. Experiment with two boxes, one with and one without the liner to see how your cat feels about them.
What kind of litter should you use? Most cats prefer fine-grained, soft substrates for elimination, so the clumping litters or dust-free small grained clay litters are most acceptable. Usually the pellet-type litters or those that are scented are unacceptable to cats. Find the type of litter your cat prefers by giving her a choice of two or three different litter boxes containing different litters. Once you find what type of litter she likes, stick with it. Do not put more than 2 inches of litter in the box. Cats do not like to sink into their toilet area.
** Kittens up to the age of 6 month should use a dust free/clump free litter such as the pellet type or recycled newspaper type. ** How many litter boxes should you have? If you have multiple cats, you should have multiple boxes in multiple locations in the house. A good rule of thumb is one box per cat plus one. Do not put them all in the same room as this essentially creates one toilet area, not several. How often should you clean the litter box? You must keep the litter box consistently clean to meet the needs of most cats. Scoop the feces out every day and totally change the litter at least twice a week. Do not use strong smelling cleaning products to wash out the box. The residual smell may cause your cat to avoid the box. It is sufficient to wash out the box with soap and water at each changing. What does it mean if your cat stops using the litter box? The first thing to consider is taking the cat to the veterinarian. It may be a medical condition causing your cat to eliminate outside the box. If the veterinarian does not find a medical problem, consider behavioral causes. Did you recently change litter brands? Did you move the box location? Are you cleaning the box often enough? Did something scare the cat when she was using the litter box? Is there unrest between the family cats? There are many reasons why cats stop using their litter boxes. Do a little detective work to try to figure out what is going on.
10 of the most common "behavioral" reasons cats urinate outside the box:
1. The litter is dirty 2. The box smells bad 3. The box is too small 4. The box smells like harsh cleaning chemicals 5. You don't scoop often enough 6. They don't like the kind of litter you're using 7. The litter is too deep 8. The litter isn't deep enough 9. The box is in a noisy location / they have no privacy 10. You don't have enough boxes (one box per cat is preferable)
DO NOT ASSUME THAT IT IS A BEHAVIORAL ISSUE, HOWEVER; HAVE YOUR PET EXAMINED BY A VET TO SEE FIRST IF THERE IS AN UNDERLYING MEDICAL ISSUE. DON'T BLAME YOUR CAT FOR BAD BEHAVIOR BEFORE CHECKING OUT TO SEE IF THERE MAY BE MEDICAL REASONS!!!
Teaching Your Cat to Use a Scratching Post
Cats scratch on things for two reasons - to shed their claws and to mark their territory. To save your furniture from damage you should provide your cat with a scratching post or two and teach him/her how to use it. The requirements for a good scratching post are:
1. Vertical posts must be sturdy and tall enough for the cat to stretch its body. Horizontal marking posts are preferred by some cats. Try both types to find out what your cat prefers, or offer one of each.
2. The posts should be located in prominent areas in your home, not in the basement. Cats often scratch when they wake up from a nap so put one near the cat's sleeping area. You can buy ready-made scratching posts at the pet store or you can make your own. A simple log is preferred by some cats. For others, a piece of corrugated cardboard mounted on a piece of wood works just fine. Although most pre-made posts are covered with carpet, this may not be the best material to use. Cats can get their claws stuck in the fabric loops and stop using the post as a result. Try attaching the carpet upside down or using other materials like upholstery fabric that is more "shred able".
Attract your cat to the post using catnip. Sprinkle the catnip on the base and into the fabric or hang bags of catnip from the top. Spend time near the post encouraging your cat to interact with it. Play with the cat near the post and incorporate it into your play.
The most important step is to reward the cat every time he/she uses the post. Have yummy food treats nearby and give one to the cat whenever you see him/her scratching the post.
Once your cat is using the scratching post you have provided you can teach him/her that other things are off limits. If you catch your cat scratching the sofa or chair, make a loud noise to startle the cat or squirt him/her with a plant sprayer or squirt gun. It is important that the cat thinks the noise or water came out of nowhere, you should say nothing. This way he/she will associate the bad thing with the behavior of scratching on the chair, not with you. Afterwards, it's important to entice the cat to the scratching post and praise him/her for using it. If you have any problems teaching your cat to use the scratching post or have other questions concerning your cat, don't hesitate to call us. We are here to help you have a wonderful relationship with your pet.
Urine Marking (Spraying) In Cats
Urine marking (spraying) is a normal feline behavior that is quite unacceptable in the human household. Cats urine mark primarily to advertise their presence to other cats and to establish and maintain territories. The most common triggers for urine marking include a new cat in the household, free-roaming cats outside, or social conflict between family cats. However, other events such as a visitor to the home, new furniture, or unfamiliar odors can also trigger urine marking. Sometimes cats urine mark if they are frustrated, such as when they are denied access to outside or haven't gotten enough attention from the owner. Additionally, an anxious or fearful cat may urine mark to surround itself with a familiar scent. Urine marking is much more common in un-neutered males however females also urine mark. Neutering your male cat is the first thing you should try, however, a certain percentage of neutered cats continue to spray following the surgery.
The following list will give you some suggestions for dealing with urine marking. Many chronic spraying problems, however, are difficult to eliminate. Management may be your best bet.
1. Make sure you clean all affected areas well with an enzymatic cleaner that breaks down the urine molecules. As long as there is an olfactory cue (the smell of the urine) the cat will continue to spray.
2. Restrict access to all sprayed areas until they are properly treated.
3. Make the area less attractive to the cat using items like aluminum foil, sticky paper, sandpaper, or a carpet runner with the nubby side up.
4. Use aversive smells in the area such as menthol, perfumes, air fresheners, potpourri, oil of wintergreen, or citrus.
5. Change the significance of the area by feeding the cat there or providing catnip, toys and treats.
6. Spray the synthetic facial pheromone FELIWAY in the area or rub your cats face with a tissue to acquire its own facial pheromones and wipe it in the area. Because cats also mark with their facial glands, providing this olfactory cue may cause the cat to switch to a different marking strategy.
7. Provide a "spray pan" - an L-shaped litter box configuration to redirect spraying to a more appropriate place.
8. Use remote punishment - As soon as you see the cat getting ready to spray, or at least within the first few seconds of the onset of the behavior, startle the cat using a penny can, water gun, whistle, etc. Do not let him see you. The noise or water must "come out of nowhere". If he associates the startling event with you he will just learn to spray when you are not around. If it appears "out of nowhere" however, he may associate the scary event with spraying and consequently cease the behavior.
9. If the spraying is a response to cats outside you should cover the windows or put something slightly aversive on the windowsill like a lemon-scented solid deodorizer. You should also discourage the neighboring cats from coming into the yard.
10. If spraying is a response to social conflict with other cats in the household you need to work on improving the relationship between the cats. Make all of their associations positive using treats, affection and play.
11. You should also provide the marking cat with "alone time" 4-6 hours a day, away from the other cat/s.
12. Provide an "environment of plenty" by creating multiple feeding areas, multiple elimination areas and multiple sleeping perches at different vertical heights throughout the house.
There are medications that may help control urine marking in your cat. The suggestions above should be attempted before considering medication. If you feel that you have tried everything and the problem still persists, consult your veterinarian about drug therapy. It is often the case however, that the cat will cease spraying while on the drug, but will revert to the behavior once the medication is stopped.
